614. Robert Southey to Charles Danvers, 15 October 1801 ⁠* 

Thursday 15 October. 1801. Dublin

My dear Danvers

I was not altogether wrong in supposing that no inconvenience would have arisen to any other person if I had been spared the fatigue of a voyage to Dublin. the unexpected conclusion of peace [1]  will take the Irish members to London sooner than they would otherwise have removed. M^r  [2]  is at present in the country – so that we have not met, – but Rickman tells me that in all probability I shall not remain here a fortnight. so much the better. it is not good for man to be alone. – I have taken lodgings here – two good rooms – at a guinea a week. dear – but for so short a stay it was not worth while to trouble myself in a long search. my living will be little expensive – I expect enough invitations.

You know it was my intention to embark from Whitehaven – or Workington in a collier. the way of the wind, & the uncertainty of the passage made me change my intention & I got to Parkgate. [3]  – whence after a wearisome delay because the Captain waited for more passengers – I sailed on Sunday last at noon. the wind was favourable – it failed before we were out of the river – we fell down only with the tide, & so dead a calm prevailed all night, that the ship was perfectly still as a house. there was not one heaving on the waters – I never saw the sea so smooth – not a curl – a ripple – a wrinkle. the shores in view, Flint – & Caernarvonshire, & the mountains among which I had so lately been journeying. I quite enjoyed the sunset. All day Monday we tacked & retacked with light & unkind winds to weather Holyhead, but in vain. at evening we stood for Beaumarais Bay, & there lay to, waiting the midnight tide. the wind rose about one in the morning. we were then in the Race of Holyhead, a rough sea, of infamous character. it blew a heavy gale – the vessel shipped much water – it came pouring into the cabin, & our pumps were both at work, thump – thump – a melancholy sound at all times! & with the working of the ship, & the cries of young children, & the roar of the wind & the waves – faith it was an ugly concert. at dawn the wind abated, & we had arrived beyond the race into smoother water. the Sun rose hazily, we were near land, yet could see nothing, & the steersman could only go by guess. in consequence when we were near enough to see the shore, it was found that we were too far North of Dublin bay, & could not possibly reach it that night. the Captain a civil careful man, willingly consented to land at Balbriggen. I never sailed with a better man. he never left the deck during night, & his only drink – on shore or at sea, was buttermilk – or milk. At Balbriggen then we landed – a little fishing & bathing town, fifteen & a half miles from Dublin – Irish miles – for all things all topsy turvy here, of which eleven here equal to fourteen in England. no means of conveyance to the capital – we sent two miles & a half to a single Inn – for five chaises, while we dined. the messenger returned with one coach. in that we shipped the women & children, loaded a car with the luggage, & proceeded with it on foot to the Inn – so after leaving the packet, we slept in the Man of War, so the Inn is called – because its sign is a Saracens head, with a pipe in his mouth. – In my company I was more than usually fortunate. the Wife of the L Lieutenants Aid du camp [4]  – with her infant – a genteel woman. a M^r Ottley [5]  of University, who nosing out my name upon the trunk civilly requested my acquaintance. his wife is very young, has been in Portugal, & is a very favourable specimen of Irish women. An old Irish gentleman of kindly manners, M^r Knox, [6]  who fell to my share in a post chaise, whom also I am bound to call upon. & tho last not least – to my infinite amusement D^r Solomon [7]  himself. & his nephew, [8]  a young & stupid cub, in training to become Prime Quack of the World whenever his Uncle shall resign. Oh I set off Solomon in all his glory! I got him upon physic – upon The Cordial Balm of Gilead, & the Anti-Impetigīnes [9]  as in defiance of all prosody he called it – & upon D^r Brodum. [10]  yes – I touched upon the tender subject – & he said there were Quacks in the world. I asked him what was the cause of the Bilious Flux at Liverpool. Sir said he – I can attribute it to nothing but the prodigious quantity of flies this summer. never were so many flies! all the meat was fly-blown. & what was the best remedy? – nothing had been found so effectual as – the Balm of Gilead. I asked him what he thought of the Acids in syphilitic cases [11]  – he replied that Pneumatic medicine had not succeeded. literally this was his answer. When he I had left the room he asked if I was not a medical gentleman. –

Wednesday morning I reached Dublin & found Rickman, who is no little personage in Ireland. he was engaged to dine with a D^r Lindsay, [12]  brother to the Lady Lieutenant [13]  as she is called, & private Secretary to her husband. he invited me also, & I found out he was a Balliol man – & thus now got a hook & eye of acquaintance with him. to day after breakfasting with Rickman I am returned to write my letters – to Edith I had of course dispatched a bulletin of my arrival before. – I know nothing of my own situation farther, but that my labour will be easy work, be it much or little, & that I suppose myself to be, according to the language of the world, in a good way. my time will be spent from Xmas till June in London, the rest of the year, in Dublin. Of the government I am led to believe every thing that is good – at least they have every temptation to do good.

The country that I passed is destitute of trees as if there existed an instinctive dread of the gallows in the people. indeed most of the <young> trees in the kingdom had been cut down to make pikes. I am disgusted by seeing barefooted women, in their caps, trolloping thro the streets. cars drawn by one horse are the only carriages of burden, & over this the posteriors of the horse so project as if they were designed to catch all chance manure by the way. one little town I past, of ancient importance, Swords, its castle & church which had a bell round tower by its square one, formed an uncommon picture. it was famous of late years as a potwalloping borough, [14]  & for rearing early ducks for the Dublin mark[MS obscured] the Union has prevented its corruption from breeding vermin any longer – but the duck-manufactory is in a flourishing state. – the post chaises are clumsy & bad. they charge more for three passengers than for two, & always expensively. – Dublin is rapidly improving & will be a most magnificent city. it is already a very fine one. as yet I have only seen the outline of the Wicklow mountains thro a haze. their shape is beautiful. the people very filthy – beastlily filthy. I cannot like them – & yet they are a people of genius. a fellow builds a turf hovel – plants his patch of potatoes & will do nothing else. he will be idle & live upon potatoes & butter milk. they have an innate love of combination. if you have three workmen about your house – they combine against you for more wages. this is Rickmans account. They are always saying odd things. Pat! said a fellow in the streets when the dry season was at an end – this rain will breed a Riot – for the little potatoes will be pushing out the big ones! – I have room for a Bull which Rickman heard – they were late in company, when one of the party looked at his watch – faith – said he – it is tomorrow morning! – I must wish you good night!

I am anxious to hear of Peggy. How is M^rs Danvers? – & my Mother? she shall have my next letter to Bristol. this contains all my present stock of information.

write to me under cover thus

Right Honble

Isaac                               this is the form.

&c &c &c

Dublin  [15]