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<title type="main">The Collected Letters of Robert Southey. Part 2: 1798-1803 </title>
<title type="subordinate">A Romantic Circles Electronic Edition</title>
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<name>Southey, Robert, 1774-1843</name>
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<idno type="nines">rce536</idno>
<idno type="edition">letterEEd.26.527</idno>
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<sourceDesc>
<p>.  Not previously published.</p>
<p>These letters were edited with the assistance of Carol Bolton, Tim Fulford and Ian Packer</p>
<p>For permission to publish the text of MSS in their possession, the editor wishes to thank the Beinecke Rare
											Books and Manuscript Library, Yale University; Berg Collection of English and American Literature, The New
											York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations; the Bodleian Library Oxford University; the
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											St Edmunds) and Northumberland, the Master and Fellows of Trinity College, Cambridge; the Society of
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<p>A research grant from the British Academy made much of the archival work possible, as did support from the
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<div n="527" type="letter">
<head>527. Robert Southey to <ref target="people.html#SoutheyTom">Thomas
                        Southey</ref>, <date when="1800-05-23">23 May 1800</date>
<note place="foot" resp="editors" type="headnote">Address: To/ Lieutenant Thomas Southey./
                        Bellona./ Plymouth Dock/ or elsewhere/ Single <lb/>Stamped:
                        [illegible]<lb/>Endorsement: 3<hi rend="sup">d</hi>
<lb/>MS: British Library, Add MS 30927<lb/>Published: Charles Cuthbert
                        Southey (ed.), <title>Life and Correspondence of Robert Southey</title>, 6
                        vols (London, 1849–1850), II, pp. 68–74 [in part].</note>
</head>
<opener>
<dateline rend="left">
<date when="1800-05-23">Friday 23 May.</date>
<address>
<placeName>Lisbon</placeName>
</address> 1800.</dateline>
</opener>
<p rend="indent1"> Lisbon has twice been clean since the creation. Noahs flood
                    washed it once, &amp; the fire after the earthquake<note n="1" place="foot" resp="editors">The earthquake of 1755.</note> purified it. when it will be
                    clean again would be difficult to say. probably not till the general
                    conflagration. A house at which I called yesterday has a drain running round one
                    of the sides, which actually empts all the filth before the entrance. the New
                        Convents<note n="2" place="foot" resp="editors">Convent of the Discalced
                        Carmelite Nuns, founded in 1779 by Maria I (1734–1816; Queen of Portugal
                        1777–1816).</note> drain opens into one of the streets – more generous than
                    the Grand Lama,<note n="3" place="foot" resp="editors">The practice of
                        collecting the excrement of the Tibetan Dalai Lama in a golden pot and then
                        making it into medicines to sell to devotees was widely known in Europe.
                        See, for example, William Julius Mickle’s (1734/5–1788; <title>DNB</title>),
                            <title>The Lusiad: or the Discovery of India</title> (Oxford, 1778), p.
                        484.</note> he sells his holy filth, but the Nuns scatter theirs liberally
                    &amp; the catholic &amp; the heretic partake its odours, as the sun shines upon
                    the just &amp; the unjust. there is a Board appointed to keep the city clean –
                    Government takes their revenue &amp; they will neither clean the city themselves
                    nor suffer any one else to do it. An English Merchant<note n="4" place="foot" resp="editors">Either William or John Mayne (dates of both unknown),
                        prominent British merchants (Adolfo Cabral (ed.), <title>Robert Southey:
                            Journals of a Residence in Portugal 1800–1801 and a Visit to France
                            1838</title> (Oxford, 1960), p. 9, n. 2).</note> applied lately for
                    permission to clean the street in which he lived – &amp; it was refused. this is
                    one of the curious absurdities of the P. government. an English invalid who was
                    terribly shaken in his carriage by the ragged pavement in his street, applied to
                    the proper officers to have it mended. they would not do it. he was a man of
                    fortune &amp; expence no object so said he, “well, I’ll mend the road myself,
                    &amp; accordingly he set men to work. the second morning they were all
                    apprehended for mending the street without orders from government.</p>
<p rend="indent1"> The filthiest offices in the place are performed by negroes –
                    they carry out from the decent houses the anonymous utensils. these poor people
                    were brought as slaves into Portugal, till Pombal prohibited all future
                    importation, still leaving those already in the country slaves, that property
                    might not be invaded.<note n="5" place="foot" resp="editors">Sebastiao Jose de
                        Carvalho e Melo, Marquis of Pombal (1699–1782; Prime Minister of Portugal
                        1750–1777) prohibited the importation of slaves into Portugal in
                        1761.</note> once since a petition was presented that the town wanted
                    Negroes – &amp; a few were imported in consequence. When they have grown old in
                    service &amp; slavery the trick of Portugueze generosity is to give them their
                    liberty. that is as if in England a man when his horse was grown old should turn
                    him adrift, instead of giving the old animal the run of his park. Of course
                    black beggars are numerous – grey-headed &amp; with grey beards they look
                    strangely – &amp; some that have the leprosy are the most hideous objects
                    imaginable. the <del rend="strikethrough">xx</del> women wear nothing on their
                    heads, &amp; this what with their woolly hair, &amp; their broad features look
                    sometimes so fearfully ugly that I do not wonder at the frequency of Negresses
                    in Romance. A Priest in this country <hi rend="ital">sold his own daughter</hi>
                    by a negress. The Portugueze despise the Negroes, &amp; by way of insult sneeze
                    at them as they pass. this is their strongest mark of contempt. – Our phrase “a
                    fig for him!” is explained by an amulet in use here against witchcraft, called a
                        <hi rend="ital">figa</hi>. the mules &amp; asses bear it. it is the figure
                    of a hand, closed, the thumb cocked out between the fore &amp; middle fingers. I
                    first saw it mentioned in a curious poem by Vieira, the famous, &amp; indeed
                    only good, Portugueze Painter.<note n="6" place="foot" resp="editors">Francisco
                        Vieira (1699–1783), <title>O Insigne Pintor e Leal Esposo Vieira
                            Lusitano</title> (Lisbon, 1780), p. 24.</note> he had one given him when
                    a child to save him from an evil eye, for he was more in danger on account of
                    his being handsome &amp; quick. as we say a child is too clever to live. – the
                    gift of the gab – must also be of Portugueze extraction. <hi rend="ital">gabar</hi> is to praise – to coax.</p>
<p rend="indent1"> No doubt this is a regular government. it is an old monarchy –
                    &amp; has an established church. if the monarchy be despotic, if the clergy have
                    an inquisition – so much the better a lawyer in England wrote a book to prove
                    that our monarchy was absolute also<note n="7" place="foot" resp="editors">Possibly Robert Filmer (1588–1653; <title>DNB</title>),
                            <title>Patriarcha</title> (1680).</note> – &amp; <del rend="strikethrough">Hughes</del> &lt;Hughes&gt;<note n="8" place="foot" resp="editors">Probably the Baptist minister Joseph Hughes (1769-1833;
                            <title>DNB</title>), who had worked as a pastor at Broadmead Baptist
                        church, Bristol until 1796. His pamphlet is unidentified, but was probably
                        published under the auspices of the Religious Tract Society, of which Hughes
                        was a co-founder, in 1799, and the first secretary.</note> – the clergyman
                    at Clifton whom you may have seen at my Aunts – lamented in a pamphlet that that
                        <hi rend="ital">aweful tribunal the Inquisition had relaxed its
                        vigilance</hi>, but you may rob, forge, &amp; murder with impunity. An
                    acquaintance of mine, (Tennant<note n="9" place="foot" resp="editors">Smithson
                        Tennant (1761–1815; <title>DNB</title>), chemist who discovered diamonds and
                        charcoal have the same chemical composition. He farmed at Shipham in
                        Somerset.</note> – well known for some famous chemical experiments on the
                    diamond) met an Irishman in Switzerland who had been at Rome. he said it was the
                    most lainient government in the world. you might kill a man in the streets &amp;
                    nobody would take the laist notice of it. This also is a lainient government; a
                    man stabs his antagonist – wipes the knife in his cloak &amp; walks quietly
                    away. it is a point of honour in the spectators to give no information. if one
                    servant <del rend="strikethrough">steals</del> robs his master, it is a point of
                    honour in his fellow servants never to inform the master. both these points of
                    honours are inviolable – from prudence, for a stab would be the consequence. One
                    method of revenge used in the provinces is ingeniously wicked. they beat a man
                    with sand bags. these do not inflict so much immediate pain as a cane would do,
                    but they so bruise all the fine vessels, that unless the poor wretch be
                    immediately scarified, lingering death is the consequence. <ref target="people.html#HillHerbertUncle">my Uncle</ref> has known instances at
                    Porto. For all useful purposes of society this is a complete anarchy. in the
                    police every individual is interested – security is the object of political
                    institutions, &amp; here every man is at the mercy of every ruffian he meets.
                    these thugs make no noise here. a man was murdered this week within thirty yards
                    of our house – &amp; we only heard it, ten days afterwards. by mere accident.
                    yet all goes on smoothly – as the Tagus flows over the dead bodies that
                    &lt;are&gt; thrown into it. they talk of clogging the wheels of government in
                    England – as if government were a mighty complex piece of clockwork. but the
                    wheels of government, only oil them well – are not easily clogged. even if the
                    liberties of the people stand in their way, they crush them – as a broad wheeled
                    waggon would pass over the head of a child – &amp; feel no jolt.</p>
<p rend="indent1"> In England you will imagine that this insecurity must occasion
                    perpetual disquiet. not so. as I do not quarrel, &amp; nobody has any interest
                    in sending me to the next world there is no danger. we are indeed safer than in
                    England, because there is not so much ingenuity exerted in villainy. instruments
                    for picking pockets &amp; breaking open houses have not yet been introduced into
                    Portugal. you meet no counterfeit money in circulation – the country is not
                    civilised enough to produce coiners. <del rend="strikethrough">xxxx</del> a man
                    may as easily escape being assassinated here, as he can fighting a duel in
                    England.</p>
<p rend="indent1"> On Sunday some boys dressed like blue boys<note n="10" place="foot" resp="editors">Pupils of Christ’s Hospital School in
                        London.</note> went under our window with baskets begging provisions &amp;
                    money. A man has set up this charity school on speculation, &amp; without funds,
                    trusting to chance alms. The Emperor of the Holy Ghost<note n="11" place="foot" resp="editors">A boy who was chosen to preside over the festivities at the
                        Feast of the Holy Ghost.</note> also passed us in person. his flags are new,
                    &amp; his retinue magnificent in their new dresses of white &amp; scarlet. his
                    musicians were all negroes. before him went a grave &amp; comely personage,
                    carrying a gilt wand of about ten feet high. The Emperor is about six years old,
                    exceedingly thin dressed like a man in full dress, silk stockings, large
                    buckles, a sword, &amp; an enormous cocked hat – bigger than yours – edged with
                    white fringe. on either side marched a gentleman usher, from time to time
                    adjusting <del rend="strikethrough">xxx</del> his hat, as its heavy corners
                    preponderated. the attendants carried silver salvers, on which they had
                    collected much copper money, few poor people passing who did not give something.
                    – Lately a Negro went along our street with a Christ in a glass case which he
                    showed to every one whom he met. they usually kissed the glass &amp; gave him
                    money. Pombal in his time prohibited such follies. these im[MS torn] have all
                    been blessed by the Pope &amp; are therefore thus respected. I was [MS torn] a
                    shop the other day waiting for change, when a beggar woma[MS torn] came in. as I
                    did not give her anything she turned to an image of our Lady, prayed to it &amp;
                    kissed it – &amp; then turned round to beg again. Religion is kept alive here by
                    these images &amp;c. like a fire perpetually supplied with fuel. they have a
                        Saint<del rend="strikethrough">s</del> for every &lt;thing&gt; – we poor
                    heretics have only our Trinity &amp; all things <del rend="strikethrough">xxx</del> are attributed to Providence – but here one saint preserves from
                    lightning <del rend="strikethrough">xxxxx</del> another from fire – a third
                    clears the clouds &amp; so on – a salve for every sore. it is a fine religion
                    for an enthusiast – for one who can let his feelings remain awake, &amp; opiate
                    his reason. never was Goddess so calculated to win upon the human heart as the
                    Virgin Mary – &amp; devotees – Moravians<note n="12" place="foot" resp="editors">The Moravian Church, or Unity of the Brethren, derived from followers of
                        the religious reformer Jan Hus (1372–1415) in central Europe in the 14th
                        century. In the 1720s they experienced a huge revival, spreading out from
                        their new settlement at Herrnhut in Germany, which emphasised communal
                        living and missionary work. A group settled in Bristol in 1755.</note> as
                    well as Catholics – not infrequently mingle the feelings of earthly &amp;
                    spiritual love as strangely – as our bible has mixed the language in Solomons
                        song.<note n="13" place="foot" resp="editors">
<title>The Song of
                            Solomon</title>.</note> We have an instance in Crashaw the poets Hymn to
                        S<hi rend="sup">t</hi> Theresa.<note n="14" place="foot" resp="editors">Richard Crashaw (1613–1649; <title>DNB</title>), ‘A Hymn to the Name and
                        Honour of the Admirable St Theresa’ (1646).</note>
</p>
<p rend="indent1"> One of the New Convent towers is miserably disfigured by a
                    projecting screen of wood. the man who rings the bell stands close by it, &amp;
                    this ugly thing is put there lest he should see the Nuns walking in the Garden –
                    or least they should see him, for a Nun has nothing but Love to think of – &amp;
                    powder magazines must be guarded warily. a million sterling has been expended
                    upon the Convent. it is magnificent within – wholly of marble &amp; the colours
                    well disposed. A million sterling! &amp; the Great Square is unfinished, &amp;
                    the City without flagstones – without lamps – without drains.</p>
<p rend="indent1"> I meet the galley slaves sometimes, &amp; have looked at them
                    with a physiognomic eye to see if they suffered from the rest of the people. it
                    appeared to me that they had been found out – &amp; the others had not. The
                    Port. face, when fine, is very fine, &amp; it rarely wants the expression of
                    intellect.</p>
<p rend="indent1"> The gardens have usually vine covered walks, stone pillars
                    supporting the trellis-poles. some you see in the old fashioned stile. <del rend="strikethrough">borders of</del> box cut into patterns like the
                    zig-zag-twirling of a Turkey carpet pattern. the Convent of the
                        Necessidades<note n="15" place="foot" resp="editors">Convent of
                        Necessidades, founded in 1750.</note> has a very large &amp; fine garden,
                    open to men – n[MS obscured by binding] to women. this is laid out in shady
                    walks like the spokes of a wheels – that centre in <del rend="strikethrough">x</del> fount[MS obscured by binding] the spaces between the walks occupied
                    with oranges, lemons, &amp; other fruit trees. every where innumerable lizards
                    are to be seen sporting in the sun – grey or green – from two inches to 20 in
                    length – nimble – harmless – beautiful animals. – </p>
<p rend="indent1">
<ref target="people.html#FrickerEdith">Edith</ref> has begun to copy Thalaba for
                        you.<note n="16" place="foot" resp="editors">This copy of
                            <title>Thalaba</title> is now Pierpont Morgan Library, LHMS MA
                        415.</note> young Hawkers<note n="17" place="foot" resp="editors">Lieutenant
                        Francis Hawker (dates unknown) of the 12th Light Dragoons. He and his wife
                        (née Cripps) were friendly with Herbert Hill. Southey met them again in
                        France in 1838 (Adolfo Cabral (ed.), <title>Robert Southey: Journals of a
                            Residence in Portugal 1800–1801 and a Visit to France 1838</title>
                        (Oxford, 1960), pp. 210–211).</note> wife says she saw you at Portsm[MS
                    obscured by binding] she is a pert – affected, little-eyed – disagreable woman.
                    he seems very good natured – we are to dine with them one day – very
                    conveniently, for they are quartered at Belem &amp; there is much to be seen
                    within half a mile of the barracks. – Rundell<note n="18" place="foot" resp="editors">Rundell (first name and dates unknown) travelled to Portugal
                        with Southey. He was possibly a member of a prominent Bath family of
                        silversmiths, jewellers and surgeons.</note> returns in a week &amp; I shall
                    make a postman of him tho alas (my <hi rend="ital">third</hi> letter) goes by
                    &lt;a&gt; privat hand.</p>
<closer>
<salute rend="indent1"> God bless you –</salute>
<signed rend="indent2"> RS.</signed>
</closer>
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