Bagni di Lucca
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| The
Shelleys,
their two
children,
and Claire
Clairmont
stayed at
Casa Bertini,
just outside
and above
the town
of Bagni di
Lucca, from
mid-June
to mid-August
1818. They
were the
happiest they
had been
since Marlow,
although
they remained
for only
two months.
They spent
their time
walking and
admiring the
surrounding
landscapes,
studying
(mostly ancient
Greek authors),
visiting
the spa, and
perusing
early (although
mostly negative)
responses
to Frankenstein.
The place
was not
particularly
conducive
to creative
work, however;
Shelley
had planned
to draft
his "Tasso" here,
but instead turned
his attention
to translation—most
notably
Plato's
Symposium,
completing
the monumental
task in
only ten
days. |
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| Like
so many Shelley
sites, there
is a bit
of a mystery
here. John
Webster reports
that he was
in Bagni
di Lucca not
long ago,
and was directed
to a different
house—having
been told
by by an
expatriot
Englishman
that the
Italians
had
put the
plaque on
the wrong
house. He
has supplied
a photo
of
a house
(below)
which corresponds
to that
shown
in Holmes's
book. (Webster
also maintains
a lovely website with
a number
of Shelley
and
Byron images.) |
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| Whichever
house is the
correct one,
Casa Bertini
is devilishly
difficult
to find (had
it not been
for David
Miall's directions,
we'd still
be looking
for it) although
its magnificent
views make
it well worth
the effort.
Subsequent
construction
has somewhat
restricted
Shelley's
commanding
prospect of
the Lucca
area below,
however. |
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| From
Lucca take
route 12
north to Bagni
di Lucca.
Once in town,
follow the
signs toward
the municipal
swimming
pool (left
off route
12) until
you reach
an arched
entrance
which
continues
on to the
pool. Do
not go
through the
arch, but
rather take
the switchback
on your left
and continue
up the hill
to a small,
dead-end
piazza. |
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| Casa Bertini is on the left. Fifty yards or so further
on there is a narrow walkway on the left, which leads up
to Byron's residence. |
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